
Air enters at the bottom of the dome shell through a flared base vent skirt
with screening, rises as it is warmed by the sun, and escapes out of the top
low profile vent cupola.
The air being vented carries with it any moisture-laden air that has
migrated into the wall cavity from the inside of the dome.
Most other dome companies ignore the condensation problem or simply don't
know it exists.
Almost all of the building codes call for a vented air space on the cold
side of the fiberglass insulation in any cathedral ceiling. All building
codes require ventilation of attic spaces.
Dome companies that use rigid insulation, cutting it to fit within the
triangles, may have a serious condensation problem because the insulation
board does not fit tight to the outside panel. This leaves a perfect space
for vapor to condense on the outside panel. (This holds true except for
coastal areas and the far south.)
The only kind of insulation not subject to this problem is sprayed in place
urethane. This material, when properly applied to dry wood, does not allow
vapor to penetrate. However, there are other problem details to be dealt
with correctly. Urethane is also much more expensive than fiberglass.
Talk to us, after 25 years of building them, we know domes. We live in
Minnesota with a 150 degree temperature variation--we know weather. Our
ultra-insulated dome system works in cold climates as well as hot climates.
Building a warm dome doesn't just mean more
insulation. It's many things, like our vented dome shell, insulation
placement, caulking details, TyvekŪ Housewrap, 6 mil plastic vapor barrier,
foundation wall insulation, triple and four pane windows, internal heat
re-circulation, and other items.
Our warm dome is economical to build. We don't want
you sitting in your warm dome worrying about how you are going to pay the
mortgage. We want you sitting in your warm Natural Spaces dome chuckling
about your neighbor in his cold, conventional, expensive house.
Condensation
Condensation can be described as the change
in moisture from a vapor to a liquid. water vapor within the house can
migrate through the wall or ceiling during the heating season to some cold
surface where it condenses, collecting in the form of ice or frost. During
warm or sunny periods, the frost melts. When conditions are severe, this
meltdown in unvented spaces may drip to the ceiling below and damage the
interior finish. Wood sheathing may swell up. Insulation becomes wet and
looses it's resistance to heat loss. These problems can be reduced or
eliminated when proper construction details are used.
The control of condensation through the use
of vapor barriers and ventilation should be practiced regardless of the
amount of insulation used.
The use of both inlet and outlet vents in
attic and roof spaces aids in keeping the air moving and preventing the
accumulation of frost or condensation roof sheathing in cold areas. "Dead"
air pockets in the roof can normally be prevented by good distribution of
inlet vents in the soffit areas. However, there is still a need for vapor
barriers; ventilation alone, when insulation is used, does not prevent
condensation problems.